I miss Salad Square: a snapshot of Montenegrin life in Kotor Old Town

Discovering Salad Square in Kotor Old Town

Head past the towering cathedral in Tryphon Square with its cluster of tourists snapping pictures outside and sneek down the narrow alleyway by the jewellery shop and you will soon come upon Salad Square in Kotor Old Town. A little unassuming square tucked away on the back wall.

Whatever time of day, through the ebb and flow of the seasons, I love coming and whiling away some time in Salad Square. Eating a simple, yet delicious breakfast of fresh eggs and thick crusty bread at the friendly local Konoba Roma. Rubbing shoulders with early risers from the cruise ships already sipping on wine. Watching the exhausted tourists collapse on one of the chairs on the terrace of Bar Perper after a sweaty climb up to the fort overlooking Kotor.

Tourists and locals mix in Salad Square in Kotor Old Town

Even though tourist numbers swell with the summer and the arrival of cruise ships, there’s still a slice of everyday local life here in the square too.  A small hairdressing salon is sandwiched to the right of the steps up to the fort.  Easy to miss if it weren’t for the occasional sound of hair dryers or the chatter of women every time the door opens on a quiet afternoon.

A tiny convenience shop is nestled on the opposite side between the square’s two restaurants, Roma and Scala Santa.  The shelves that line every wall in the dark, windowless space are packed full of packets of pasta, biscuits and family sized packs of crisps.

A little unassuming square tucked away on the back wall of Kotor Old Town.

Watching the world go by in Kotor’s Salad Square

All through the summer both restaurants are busy with people, spilling onto the terraces, chatting and savouring the freshly prepared fish and local wine.  And day and night the square comes alive with informal music performances enticing the wandering tourists to stop awhile. Back backers sit on the steps near to the youth hostel drinking beer and smoking, while exchanging stories of their travels. Others walk through the square, maybe browse a short while in the souvenir shop or stop at the lovely old fountain to cool themselves down or fill their water bottles up.

I love coming and whiling away some time in Salad Square

I also love to lift my eyes from the action on the ground and look up at the tall stone buildings that line Salad Square. If you’re lucky you can get a little glimpse into the homes of those who live around the square, when the shutters are open and lights switched on as it darkens outside.  Sometimes people lean out of their windows to enjoy the spectacle below, while others take in laundry from lines precariously strung from their windows or exchange a few words with each other from their balconies.

The square comes alive with music in summer

Montenegro in all its beauty is neatly contained in this small square with a strange name. And I love it. Take a seat, stop a while and take it all in. You might just find you love Salad Square too.

In this period of lockdown and uncertainty, I’m missing you, Salad Square.  But I’m looking forward to seeing you again.  Hopefully very soon.