What’s it like driving in Montenegro?

What are the roads like in Montenegro?

My experience of driving in Montenegro has been in the coastal areas along the Adriatic and inland to the capital Podgorica, Cetinje and Lovcen National Park. The coastal road, which runs all the way down the Adriatic, brings you from Croatia and will take you all the way along the Montenegrin coastline into Albania. (The latter is on my wish list for next year). It’s a good road – single carriage way mostly, with dual carriageway in parts. In fact, most of the roads I have driven on in Montenegro have been good.

Just be aware of the road from Kotor to Cetinje (through the Lovcen National Park). This is called Kotor Serpentine or Ladder of Cattaro. It is very windy with some steep drops on one side, sometimes with little in the way of barriers. Not my favourite sort of driving to be honest, but you get some fantastic views!

As Montenegro is very mountainous in parts, I would also recommend checking the weather beforehand if venturing higher outside the summer months. There was still 4 ft of snow when I went to Njegos’ Mausoleum (Lovcen) when it opened at the end of April, although a single lane in the road had been cleared for cars.

The Montenegrin police are keen on enforcing speed limits. You will see them standing beside the road with what look like white table tennis bats.

Driving rules in Montenegro

The speed limits vary so always check out the speed road signs. But generally, it is 50km/hr (31 m/hr) in a built-up area and a top speed of 80 km/hr (50 m/hr) on the open road. There are also speed limits of less than this though, which can feel pretty slow.

You will see plenty of local cars breaking the speed limit (and driving right up behind to make you feel you should too). But don’t be tempted or pressurised to break the speed limits.

The Montenegrin police are keen on enforcing speed limits. You will see them standing beside the road with what look like white table tennis bats. They are checking speeds and will hold up their table tennis bat if they wish you to pull in. (To fine you, that is. Not for a friendly game). Police can also be hidden from view with their speed detection equipment, although I haven’t seen that as much.

Drivers often flash their headlights to oncoming traffic if they have passed a speed check policeman and wish to warn others of this. (The camaraderie of the road!)
Montenegrin law prohibits a blood alcohol level higher than 0.3 g/kg, or 0.1 g/kg for drivers younger than 24 or with less than 12 months of driving experience.
And no mobile phones whilst driving.

Drive in the day with dipped headlights

Montenegrin road law requires you to drive with dipped headlights in the daytime. (Obviously you will also need them on as usual at night time). Having them on in the daytime is easy enough to do but also easy to forget. I’ve been pulled in by the police for forgetting this particular rule, but they just gave a friendly warning on that occasion. Needless to say, I don’t forget now.

Watch out for the mad Montenegrin overtaking

Road systems are fairly simple and the speed limits are low. But the Montenegrin themselves are mad drivers. They drive fast and they love overtaking. They do this on long stretches with oncoming cars approaching (I think they expect other people to adjust their speed accordingly). And also on corners. In other words, in places where they should really know better not to. So, keep your cool and watch out for this one.

Have your documents in the car

You are expected to have your ID (passport or driving licence) and car documents with you when you drive in Montenegro. This is the first thing they will ask you if stopped. So, if you have hired a car, make sure you have the paperwork to hand.

Fines can be issued for as a little as 10 km/h (approx. 6 m/hr) over the speed limit. If they issue a fine, then the police will retain documents until the fine is paid (either on the spot or at a specified location such as a Post Office). I actually don’t like carrying my passport or my driving license around with me all the time, because of the risk of it getting stolen or lost, but I do have copies of them on my phone. (I think this is probably an English mentality as we are not required to carry ID with us).

One of the few times I have been stopped by the police in the car was on New Year’s Day. I wasn’t actually speeding (so the police must have been bored, I think). They asked for my documents and requested I opened the boot of the car. As I was stocking my apartment at the time, I had mounds of white towels in there which must have looked a bit odd. (Hiding a body, maybe?) But fortunately, the policemen flinched not, returned the documents and waved me on my way.

Driving in Montenegro is a great way to see the place, get off the beaten track, have the freedom to stop when and where you choose on your travels. If you remember to stick to the speed limits and be mindful of those mad overtakers, I think you’ll find it a straightforward and enjoyable experience too.