24 hours in Montenegro: Tirana to Podgorica by bus

Arrival at Podgorica main bus station in Montenegro

After our journey we were excited to be able to explore a new city. We already had accommodation booked in Podgorica and, according to Google Maps, it was only a 28 minute walk from the bus station.

Being efficient with our finances we try to walk whenever possible and perhaps this helps to get our bearings faster and see more of the area. After a slightly precarious amble along old, pavement free roads, a busy highway and finally a leafy suburb, we arrived at our accommodation.

If you travel alone, or with a friend, I would highly recommend staying at this Air BnB apartment in the Masline area. It is quiet and mostly residential but an easy walk to the centre. This is an excellent space with fantastic hospitality, incredible views and a breakfast worth getting up for!

The apartment also came with rental bikes. But, unfortunately, we were not there for long enough to make the most of them.

Sampling the restaurants of Podgorica

In the late afternoon, after our day of travelling, we set out to explore some of the city and sample the local cuisine. We headed towards Podgorica’s old town and strolled along the river Morača for a while and admired the lush green scenery. We passed through the quiet, timeworn streets, modest houses and charming mosques.

Stomachs rumbling, we stumbled upon a restaurant called Pod Volat. What a stroke of luck that was as the food here was fantastic – delicious and excellent value! The barbecue and Eastern European menu was extensive so our only option was to try a number of items. Our waiter attempted to explain to us what the different dishes were, but even in English we were clueless. Carrying on regardless we ordered a random mixture and were pleasantly surprised – especially by the “clouded cream” and barbecued kebabs.

After dinner we wandered back to our cosy apartment. We decided to take a different route so we could see more of the city. Our alternative course took us through King’s Park with its beautiful monuments and ornate lamp posts. We also passed many of the taller apartment blocks usually associated with the former Yugoslavia. Our final stop was the local supermarket where we sampled an array of local snacks. Eventually we arrived back in the leafy Masline area and retired to our rooms for a much needed night’s sleep.

Montenegro’s first vegan restaurant in Podgorica

The next day we woke up early to enjoy the delicious breakfast. Our apartment was attached to the first restaurant in Montenegro to serve vegan food – Piper’s Green. As meat lovers, we were sceptical but extremely impressed with the food. There was loads of it and all of it was delicious, freshly made and excellent quality.

The train from Podgorica to Virpazar, Montenegro

There is a bus and a train service from Podgorica to Virpazar, both of which take around 40 minutes. The stations are right next to each other so we walked into the centre to check out both options. Just before arriving at the bus station, we came across the grandly entitled, Mall of Montenegro. Obviously we had to take a look. What we found was, not so much a mall but, a sprawling indoor marketplace set out over two floors. The top floor sold clothes and accessories and the lower level had fruit, flowers, baked goods, etc. With no burning desire for a questionable CK jacket, we went downstairs to peruse the goodies.

The market was so full of colour and fantastic aromas of garlic and pastries. We made our purchases and with a bag full of burek, baklava and bananas we skipped over to the station. After enquiring at both the bus and the train stations, we found that the train times worked out better for us. We bought our tickets for 1 Euro and made our way to the platform. At exactly the right time and old engine rolled up and we opened the manual door of the carriage. We found plush, red seats in one of the compartments and made ourselves comfortable. Some friendly locals joined us and gave us a few helpful tips and provided a lot of banter on the way.

Practical tip:

There doesn’t seem to be much information online, in English, regarding times, cost, etc for the trains or the buses. It was easier for us to go to the station & ask.

Virpazar station to Lake Skadar

When we arrived at Virpazar station, there was a path that leads you to the lake when you cross to the other side of the tracks. It was quite difficult to find and we ended up walking along the quiet tracks for a bit. The path is visible on Google Maps and any local will be happy to point you in the right direction.

On arrival, the view over the lake and surrounding mountains is magnificent. The dark, rugged peaks reach from the green lake to the soft clouds and the hillside is dotted with grey stone houses. We were short on time so decided to climb up to Besac Castle, appreciate the spectacular vista and enjoy a spot of lunch. We paid 1 Euro each to enter the castle, which was worth it just for the views over the lake. 

Practical Tip:

Make sure you take change with you for entry into Besac Castle.

If you have more time, there are plenty of restaurants to choose from and even a few hotels if you fancy a longer stay. There is plenty of useful information for tourists and some helpful guides in the town. We really regretted not having enough time for a boat trip, which needed about 2 hours on the water. The lake is vast and spending some proper time exploring it is highly recommended.

The weather was great, the locals friendly and the scenery mesmerising. Lake Skadar stretches further than you can see and is surrounded by dark, dramatic mountains. Time passed so quickly and after a couple of hours we had to set off along the path back to the station and hop on the train to Podgorica.

Back in the capital and soon we needed to catch our next bus to Dubrovnik. We had just enough time to buy some snacks at the station before boarding. 24 hours in Podgorica was well worth it and I wish we could have explored more of this beautiful area, sampled more local food and spent time absorbing the relaxed vibe. This is certainly not “Europe’s most boring city”.

Read more insprations and practical tips about travel from Katy in the Balkans on The Balkans and Beyond .

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